The Cambodian Bodhi Tree -- New Leaves, and Old

New leaves are showing on the sacred Bodhi trees across Cambodia as they are on the more common, and decidedly unsacred mango. (At the same time many other trees are losing leaves, shedding seeds, or going dormant :).

Local lore says that at least some of the Bodhi trees originated in India. The trees in front of Wat Botum in Phnom Penh (near the National Assembly) are said to have grown from cuttings from ancient trees growing in Sri Lanka, which in turn were taken from cuttings from the "original" Buddha tree. The Wat was founded in 1422 by King Ponhea Yat (1405-1467), but got its current name in 1865.

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30,000 Kilometers And Counting

Just got into Phnom Penh from a five-day trip to Preah Vihear via Kampong Thom and to Prey Veng via Kampong Cham.

My first trip to Preah Vihear by motorcycle was surprisingly easy, considering that it is widely considered one of Cambodia's 'remote' Provinces. When I first visited this province after Cambodia's 1993 elections, it was remote. There was no land access out of Kampong Thom; we went in by UN helicopter.

That has changed.  Read More!

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Merry Christmas From Cambodia

So it's Christmas Day in Cambodia where the main religion is Theravada Buddhism.

Buddhist religious practice co-exists easily with those of the Muslim Cham people and with the wide assortment of Christian Churches across the country that Buddhism clearly owns: there are more than 4500 temples here. (For such a poor country, this is an enormous story of recovery. All were abandoned during the Khmer Rouge years; many were destroyed or used as animal pens, the monks killed or scattered abroad.)

In the Cambodian uplands ethnic minority groups practice their ancient animism (aspects of religious belief and practice they share with most Cambodians, fear and reverence of forest spirits, for example). Christian missionaries are working assiduously in places like Ratanakiri and Mondulkiri to aid, teach and, of course, to convert. Read More!

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Death in Cambodia: 10 years old

I was looking for a place to take a break on a recent motorcycle trip between Siam Reap and Phnom Penh. Two things are important: shade and fresh green coconuts. Only after I spotted a likely stopping point did I notice the skid marks on the road. And it was only after I stopped, parked, greeted the owners of the shop, asked for a green coconut that I walked out and saw how long the skid marks were and how they ended right in front of the shop at a chalked in small human figure.

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My Friend, the Tarantula (How about Fried Crickets?)

If you travel up Route 6A from Phnom Penh on your way to the northeast provinces, or perhaps to take Route 6 to Kampong Thom, or, further up the road, to that Cambodian destination of destinations, Siem Reap, you are likely to stop for breakfast just before Skun, about 75 kilometers from your start in the capital city, where 6A becomes National Routes 6 and 7.

National Route 6A and the work on Route 7 have transformed travel between the capital and the Angkor temple complexes. And as land approaches to Siem Reap became easier over the last few years, the fast boats that ran the lake went out of business even as tourist numbers swelled. Facilitating this transformation were hundreds of used buses, imported from Korea and Taiwan. The intense competition has created great travel deals: $US7 to $US11 for a one-way bus ticket for the 300 km trip.

And almost all the buses that start in Phnom Penh will make a rest stop in Skun. I have my own favorite breakfast place where you can get a selection of noodle soups and curries (made from scratch with fresh vegetables) and good, strong highland coffee.

Fresh-cut mango or pineapple are hawked by kids, which you can munch on during your onward travel. And if you are particularly adventurous, buy a bag of fried tarantulas or crickets!

The young lady above graciously posed for a picture with her furry friend. I gave her a thousand riel ($0.25) as I often do when I take a young person's picture. Giving money like that is anathema to some photographers (though many I have encountered with this attitude are professionals who are going to make quite a bit of money when their picture is published). They say it spoils things for the next photographer. I find the claim suspect and self-serving.

Though I do not make money on the pictures that I take, I don't mind provoking a smile with a thousand riel note given in thanks. (I wouldn't be surprised if she has had her pictures taken dozens of times for similar small contributions, good on her, is what I would say)!

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